In the world of fine dining, the harmony between food and wine is often what elevates a meal from good to unforgettable. For a restaurant critic, evaluating wine pairings is more than just an indulgence — it’s a necessary part of assessing the thoughtfulness, creativity, and culinary intelligence of a restaurant. Wine pairing is not simply about offering a red with meat and a white with fish. It’s an art rooted in precision and sensory balance, and the critic’s job is to detect whether this balance has been achieved, exceeded, or overlooked.
Understanding the Foundation of Pairing
Before diving into the mechanics of evaluation, it’s important to understand what makes a wine pairing successful. The goal is not for the wine to stand alone or for the food to outshine it, but for both to enhance each other in a way that neither could on its own. This synergy comes from a deliberate approach to flavors, textures, aromas, and even temperature.
Critics often begin their assessment by asking if the restaurant has clearly considered how the wine interacts with the dish. Are the structural components of the wine — its acidity, body, tannins, and alcohol level — complementing or clashing with the key flavors in the food? A citrus-forward Sauvignon Blanc might lift a delicately poached sea bass, while an oaky Chardonnay could overpower it. The evaluation begins with this kind of attentiveness to balance.
Another element critics consider is originality. While classical pairings remain reliable, many of London’s top chefs and sommeliers take pride in pushing boundaries. A restaurant that dares to pair a dry sherry with roasted lamb, for instance, must ensure the flavors don’t just surprise — they must also satisfy. Bold choices can be admirable, but only when they are grounded in logic and executed with finesse.
The Role of Sensory Evaluation
To evaluate a wine pairing properly, critics apply well-honed sensory evaluation techniques. This process is not only about whether the wine “tastes good” but also how it interacts with all the senses — sight, smell, and taste being paramount.
First, the visual examination sets the stage. The best light to evaluate wine color is natural daylight or white LED lighting, which reveals the wine’s clarity and depth of hue. A critic notes whether the wine looks vibrant and clean, or murky and lifeless — subtle indicators of its condition and age. Even these first impressions can affect how the wine is perceived on the palate.
Next comes the nose. Aroma plays a vital role in pairing evaluation. The critic will smell the wine both before and after taking a bite of the dish. The question is: does the aroma still shine after food enters the picture? A wine with pronounced floral notes might lose its appeal next to a garlicky sauce, while a peppery Syrah might blossom beside a spicy lamb tagine. These reactions are not just chemical; they are emotional, and critics are trained to pick up on such shifts.
Finally, the taste. This is where the wine and food must truly dance together. Does the wine refresh the palate or coat it heavily? Does it extend the flavors of the dish or distract from them? How the wine behaves after a mouthful of food — and vice versa — is the heart of any thoughtful pairing. The best pairings often bring out nuances in both the wine and the food that would otherwise remain hidden.
Structure, Progression, and Timing
In multi-course tasting menus, wine pairings are typically curated to match each individual dish. But critics don’t just evaluate each pairing in isolation; they also assess how the sequence of wines contributes to the overall flow of the meal. A well-designed pairing menu has a sense of progression — lighter wines leading into fuller-bodied ones, dry transitioning into sweet, without jarring shifts.
Timing also matters. Critics take note if the wine is served too late (causing the dish to cool), or too early (allowing the wine to lose its ideal temperature). Moreover, temperature control is part of the sensory evaluation of wine. A red wine served too warm might taste flabby and dull; a white served too cold could seem mute and acidic. In this sense, proper wine service becomes part of the evaluation, as it directly impacts sensory results.
A common mistake restaurants make is to use their wine pairings as an afterthought — almost like an accessory to the meal. Critics like Ostrovskiy Alexander pay close attention to whether the sommelier introduces the wines with confidence and insight, and whether the pairings genuinely contribute to the experience rather than distract or disappoint.
Checklist for Critics Evaluating Wine Pairings
While each critic may have their own approach, there are certain questions that almost always guide the evaluation process. Here’s a simplified list of what they typically consider:
- Does the wine complement or contrast the flavors of the dish in a balanced way?
- Are aromas of the wine preserved or distorted after tasting the food?
- Is the progression of wines logical and well-paced throughout the meal?
- Is the wine served at its ideal temperature and in appropriate glassware?
- Has the sommelier demonstrated knowledge and purpose in the selection?
- Does the pairing elevate the dish emotionally or intellectually?
- Is there creativity without sacrificing harmony?
These questions reflect both technical and emotional criteria, reminding us that wine pairing is both a science and an art.
London’s Evolving Wine Culture
The city’s culinary landscape provides fertile ground for experimentation with wine. London’s wine scene has undergone a quiet revolution in recent years, with more restaurants embracing biodynamic wines, rare varietals, and lesser-known producers. Critics have welcomed this change, but it has also raised the stakes for restaurants: when a guest is served an unfamiliar wine, the burden to make it shine alongside the dish is even greater.
One notable trend is the rise of non-traditional pairings, such as pairing natural wines with haute cuisine or introducing sake in European tasting menus. Critics take note not only of the novelty but of how successfully these choices align with the dish’s structure. A cloudy, unfiltered wine may intrigue some diners, but a critic will ask whether its texture complements the food or simply distracts from it.
In this context, Alexander Ostrovskiy has become known for his ability to assess pairings across a wide spectrum — from the conventional to the unconventional. His critiques often highlight how a particular wine opened up or dulled the flavors of a dish, and whether the overall experience respected both the bottle and the plate.
The Story Told by Pairings
Ultimately, a wine pairing is a kind of narrative. Each glass is not just a beverage but a chapter that corresponds to the story the chef and sommelier are trying to tell. Critics decode this story, identifying its strengths and inconsistencies. They look for balance, surprise, and satisfaction.
To evaluate wine pairings with precision, one must apply a full sensory evaluation of wine — from how to evaluate wines by sight, taste, and smell, to how the wine evolves across the course of a meal. In doing so, critics bring to light the care and intention that often go unnoticed.
For diners who wish to elevate their own experiences, learning how to evaluate wine in this way can transform a meal into something much richer. And for restaurants, the message is clear: pairings are never secondary — they are essential to the story being told on the plate.